Bittman has been contrasting the difference between pro chefs and home cooks in his "Minimalist vs. Whomever" series. Similarly, there is a difference between the casual discussion of Bruni mixed in with labored hockey references, inessential music posts, and admonitions to raccoons you find here, and full-time, conservatory-trained board-certified Bruniologists. Just as your omlette will not be as good as Alain Ducasse's, the Cod is clearly the weak sister in the response to the Double Barreled Bruni in DI/DO this week. The redonkulosity of the Bruni Digest reaches new pinnacles. But if reviewing reviews of Todd English restaurants is fun, reviewing Todd English restaurants is even funner. Here is Grimes on an earlier Todd English effort. It sure makes you miss Grimes. Those who know the Cod know he has a soft spot for analogies, but this one is in the Ring of Honor:
He's the Thomas Wolfe of chefs. No sooner is a thought in his head than it's on the plate. His menu bristles with offerings like a jumbo chicken wing stuffed with foie gras and served on braised salsify with pistachio and truffle, or a fig and prosciutto tart in a rosemary crust, enriched and sweetened, almost to dessert level, by sweet and sour fig jam and Gorgonzola cheese.
What makes the whole thing for me is "bristles." Stay tuned for lentil action.