Before they were quasi-stars...

...they were pretty much the same. During quiet moments at the home of the Codfather and Codmother, I sometimes peruse one of the old Spy magazines deposited there. Beyond marveling at how one magazine can be so influential and yet age so poorly "That brash DA Rudy is going nowhere," et cetera, there is the odd name that jumps out. In the letters from the October 1994 ish, there were several responses to an article about how Jean-Georges Vongeritchen is an asshole who treats his staff poorly. The responses were mixed, capped by a letter from a young chef:

      Your article was a stunning disappointment. That an essentially working-class group of men who work together in a cramped, hot space for long hours should engage in crude, sexist remarks, penile sculpture, and--yes even hire strippers, surprises me as much as hearing bad language in the stands at a Rangers game
     Worse, that it should be a surprise to the apparently sheltered Mr. Burrows that an chef could behave in a strict authoritarian fashion, and (heavens!) even hurl abuse at his cooks leaves me wondering if Alan Simpson or Gloria Steinem  has taken over the editorial process at your formerly entertaining magazine. What the hell happened?

Anthony Bourdain,
Chef, Supper Club New York, New York.

Better yet, the ital comment from Spy:

Interestingly, Chef Bourdain's letter contained a note that it was being cc'd to Vongerichten himself. Happy networking, we hope you get the job.

Good to know that kissing JGV's ass is not an Oughts phenomenon exclusively. Without getting all Irigaray, I'd argue that Tony makes exactly the point he disputes. Like they say,  I never played the game, but I understand that a restaurant kitchen does not run like a Montessori school. However, Tony throws up a class smokescreen to conceal some sketchy gender stuff. His postulate is that a kitchen is "an essentially working-class group of men who work together in a cramped, hot space for long hours." Like, natch ladies will be uncomfortable there, 'cause its all dudes. Exactly. Also, because these are "essentially working-class" dudes, they did not go to school in Providence or anything, and thus  never learned to treat people with respect, and thus never learned not to "engage in crude, sexist remarks."  I am not proposing that all fine dining establishments be placed under control of the Indigo Girls, but hiding your fratboy antics behind your bluecollar prepcooks is a sissy move. 

 

Comments

[Doubleman]

Bourdain puts on one of the toughest fronts, but he had a more privileged upbringing than most of the so called "working class group of men."

They were the ones he idolized, the toughs. He wanted to be like them but never could, so he acts like a macho prick to fit in.

But I guess you're tough if you'll travel around the world eating things likely to be seen on Fear Factor.

I can't even begin to imagine how bad the show based around his book will be:
http://www.fox.com/schedule/2005fall/kitchenc.htm

[sac]

Bourdain, a priviledged upbringing? Oh come on, who doesn't have stories about their lazy childhood summers in France?

[lindsay]

I don't know who any of those people are except the Indigo Girls, but it was still really funny!

[BK]

POTVIN SUCKS!

[jennifer]

Almost as good as Morrissey's letters to NME (I think that's right).

[max]

So last night I'm watching a NOVA about Typhoid Mary (yeah I TiVo NOVA, fuck off), and one of the "experts" is "chef/author" Tony Fucking Bourdain. WTF?
(He was, to be fair, perfectly sympathetic, except for the earring of course).

[Fesser]

His world; we just live here.

[la_depressionada]

all rich kids love tough guys (girls and boys). it's all about the SEX you know. but i hate to tell mr. bourdain he'll never fuck like an italian guy from brooklyn.

also, speaking about hidden backgrounds, did you guys know that gloria steinem was a cia op?

she should spending eternity blowing him and he should spend eternity not being able to speak (or come).

[Stevie (female)]

Hell,

Bourdain can come on me!!

Sissy boy or otherwise...he is hot!!