I imagine the Rolling Stones shilling Rice Krispies way back in the LBJ days is supposed to be some sort of skeleton in the closet, but the jingle rocks. I'd rather listen to this than anything the've done in the last 25 years, for certain. And it makes me want to eat Rice Krispies. Via Advanced Theory, out of the Fiddler, again.
Actually, we are tagines.* Flofab takes them out for a testdrive and concludes you are better off shopping at the souk than at Williams-Sonoma. Curiously, the Cook's Illustrated that arrived yesterday also had a tagine test. Do Florence and Chris Kimball speak each other's unspoken language? Developing! The winner, according to Cook's? A dutch oven. Flofab opts for the echt. If they ever open up The Museum of Wedding Presents of Limited Utility, there will be a tagine wing. For starters, any wedding gift that doubles as such an attractive blunt instrument seems like a bad idea. In re Williams-Sonoma, they grow ever bolder. I was momentarily tempted by the silcone spatulae in saffron ( monogrammable, no less!) until I saw the new frittata pan. This gets my vote for stupidest kitchen item of 2006. If you have a skillet, a range, and a stove, you can make a damn frittata. Beat up some eggs, add whatever you have around, cook it on the stove until it firms up around the sides, throw it in the oven until the top is brown. Or you can drop $135 on this contraption that seems like the quickest way possible to introduce beaten eggs into the interior of your range. I have to think that someone in Marketing had a bet that they could find a way to get people to buy two pieces of Calphalon that would have only one use. Someone needs to take these folks to the woodshed, or better yet, the Lodge. * As good a moment as any to register my objection to Dev2.0. Rip it up and start again ≠ pissing on your own legacy by re-recording your songs in the manner of Kidz Bop. Instead, let's hear what these kids do with a Devo song: Superchunk, "Girl U Want" Freedom of Choice, Tannis Root, 1992
Fair enough. As the article says, "Their routine was expensive, fattening and boring." Absolutely. But how does spending a two hour chunk of time at a meal assembly center preparing "a rotating menu of mostly stews and casseroles designed to be assembled
in freezer bags or aluminum trays, then taken home to be baked or
simmered in a single pot," made from cafteria quality ingedients help? This chain seems to be making its bones by adding "inconvenient" to the "expensive, fattening and boring" equation. Also, my objection to this business is not a question of insisting that parents ("Moms" as the Times call them) travel to Brittany to harvest their own fleur de sel, or generally spend more time making meals, and eschew this kind of shortcut -- these meal assembly centers seem distinctly less convenient than making a meal at home, never mind the risk of getting cream of broccoli all over the interior of your Nissan Quest.
The secondary mystery is why the Times continues to recycle this story. Last time it was Hesser, and now she has punted to Kim Severson* and that Salman Rushdie of mac and cheese, Julia Moskin. I vented thus in re Dream Dinners last time, though I hope nobody comes here for stock tips--unaccountably, Dream Dinners appears to be growing more rapidly than Kenny Rogers Roasters. I never thought threre could be a franchise concept that made me nostalgic for Boston Market. Can anyone explain this?
*Severson's post-Katrina NOLA food coverage has been solid, and more importantly, persistent.