I've seen the Grand old Opry...

I've seen the Grand old Opry
and I've met Johnny Cash,
Coal burning stove, no natural gas,
If that ain't country, I'll kiss your ass

I have absolutely no idea what the lede to the Country review means, but Francis appears to be getting all Bocephus on Zakarian, reproaching him for serving storeboughten wine, and other suchlike big city affectations:

TO appreciate Country properly, you have to overlook its name, which it got not because it stokes bucolic thoughts or emphasizes rustic dishes but because its chef, Geoffrey Zakarian, also operates a restaurant called Town. He apparently couldn't resist the opportunity for matched-set cuteness, even though Country has a glittery soul that is almost entirely cosmopolitan. He's like a father who disregards such pesky details as gender to christen his second son Cleopatra because the first is Antony.

This is a restaurant with an $85 tasting menu located on East 29th St in Manhattan. If Frank wants all you can eat BBQ, license plates on the wall, RV parking and opportunities to join the house band on washboard, Murray Hill is not where you will find the trees to bark up. However, three stars may ease some of the sting for Zakarian of imagining his second son carrying on like the lost Arquette in a Bangles video.

    If you do want to talk about country, FloFab gives props to  a cheese that like Otis Redding, is straight from the Georgia woods. As Otis Redding himself points out, that's good. Having had the chance to try the Sweetgrass line at Belly General Store. I concur heartily. There are still some parts of the country not inundated with artisanal cheesemakers, and Georgia is one, so it's good to see GA farmers represented in the Old Gray Lady. If you had Georgia on your mind, you might even pair  the  Sweetgrass with a quality  Sweetwater ale, and listen to Otis and Carla  mess around with "Tramp."

Otis Redding & Carla Thomas, "Tramp" Stax 7", 1967