Actually, no stars for Mr. Chow seems right on the money. But clip and save this guy for when you are feeling indignant. In other news, my first actual attempt at a receipt from Ruhlman's big meat book is in the oven. Still not as fun to read as Jane Grigson on pate, but possibly more helpful. Ruhlman's endorsement of the quenelle test (poach in plastic wrap) instead of a mini grilled patty to check for seasoning makes all kinds of sense. Pate de campagne details to follow.