I recently reproached faithful correspondent LaD for her comment to the recent Dirty Sugar Cookies review, wherein she elaborated on her belief that a) children under the age of 35 should be banned from the island of Manhattan, and b) compulsory sterilization should be a prerequisite for purchasing a Metrocard. (I am paraphrasing.) However, I may have underestimated the infantilization of NYC. How else to explain the overwhelming anticipation for S'mac, a joint that will specialize in mac and
cheese? In, say, Evanston, I could see how a place like this might be an appealing novelty, a good spot for a casual midweek meal about six weeks into a three month relationship. Alternatively, I could see S'mac working as a casual boho college niche chain, for when you are hung over, or laying a base, like, Mellow Mushroom. But in New York Fucking City? Swat these people on the nose with a rolled up Zagat's and tell them that Dora the Explorer ain't gonna play S'mac.