Bluefish and Lemmon

If it were my job to sell bluefish, and he were still alive, I'd  get Jack Lemmon to be my spokesperson. If Lemmon is an actor's actor, bluefish is a fish's fish. Certainly, not a fish for people who do not like fish. For reasons not entirely clear to me, many of the same folks who do not like bluefish are the people who fish for them. By all accounts, they behave like blenders with fins and scales, which makes for exciting sport, but may account for the prejudice against them. I've always been a fan. If you are in the Northeast, they are local, as far as I know, they are in no danger of being overfished, and they taste like something, as opposed to say, tilapia. Also, I don't know how seasonal they are, but blues usually seem to appear in late summer, in the context of real tomatoes and corn on the cob. This past weekend involved important Rockaway birthday activities. Usually, my role at this party is to cook all or part of a mammal, but a grill shortage made that impractical. I'd seen this receipt in the Globe earlier in the week, and thought I'd give it a try.

6  ounces boneless smoked bluefish
8  ounces cream cheese, softened
1/2  medium red onion, finely chopped
4-6  dashes hot sauce
2  tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1  tablespoon lemon juice
1  tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/4  cup chopped fresh chives (for garnish)
1. Remove and discard the skin and darkest flesh from the bluefish.
2. Flake the fish into medium bowl. Add the cream cheese, onion, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, and parsley. Stir to combine thoroughly. Transfer to a serving bowl, garnish with chives, and serve with toast points or crackers.
-Amanda Lydon and Gabriel Frasca.*

This seemed to be pretty popular. I did not have this receipt in front of me when I was cooking, but this is the basic idea. I did smoke the bluefish myself, and you might as a well, too:  Salt and pepper the filets, put them in a Cameron smoker** with some mostly alder and some cherry chips, and smoke until the smoke subsides, and a bit more. (Ca. 25 minutes over a medium flame.) This is one of those receipts that tastes good at intermediate stages--maybe better than as the finished product -- the cream cheese takes in in a sort of deli-ish direction that is not so consistent with a summer beach context. Next time, I might try binding the fish with a light homemade mayo instead. On the other hand, the limited cracker options at the local grocery led to a very happy triscuitaissance. They were the perfect medium for this stuff, and I'd forgotten how good they were.

*Unfortunately, not Johnny Lydon's daughter, but rather Christopher Lydon's.
**Do not be skeptical. This may look like a NordicTrack for your kitchen, but I've enjoyed everything I've ever made with it.

Comments

[ann]

bluefish certainly aren't in danger of being overfished, but as you noted they are cantankerous little boogers, and they like eating other fish as much as they hate being caught on a line
apparently this causes certain icky things to build up in their flesh, like mercury and pcbs
some people say they're never safe to eat, others say they're safe as long as you dont a. eat the skin, b. eat the dark meat and c. don't fry them
either way, i'm not going to stop, bluefish are so freakin' awesome, they make summer worth the heat and perspiration

[punisher]

My first year in Somerville I shared an apartment with a girl who's boyfriend was a local fella. He was pretty much a ringer for Donal Logue doing the Boston cabbie bit, and had been on more than one occasion, pinched by Cambridge's Finest for selling skunkweed, "up, uh, you know, up in Alewife, up the uh, up by the friggin' Aku Aku?"

Anyway, he was very into fishin' for Blues, and swore the by piers in Dorchester, I think.

I hope that the Rock was fun. I'm missin' it somethin' awful.

[Rose's Lime]

Not only does Philly's famous Dimitri's make the best grilled Octopus, they also have a great preparation for bluefish. The receipt is something like this: saute garlic, onions and tomatoes and maybe some olives or capers, can't remember.. Add bluefish fillet, some green and red peppers, and throw the whole thing in the broiler. The oils and flavor of the bluefish complement and stand up to the sauce and make a bold putanesca of a dish.

[la_depressionada]

put mixture of salt, pepper, breadcrumbs, garlic, olive oil and parsley on top of bluefish fillet. broil. when crumbs are crisp add fresh chopped parsley and a copious amount of lemon juice. grandma would sometimes add pieces of skinned seeded chopped plum tomatoes, but of course then leave off the lemon.

[JL]

as you dont a. eat the skin, b. eat the dark meat

But the skin and the dark meat are the best parts. Though my grandmother did used to refer to them collectively as "the poison."

We've never felt the need to do much to bluefish. Just broil it with a little olive oil, lemon juice, and paprika on top, and serve with summer veggies of any kind (I like baby zucchini sauteed with lots of garlic, and of course, corn, tomatoes, etc.)

I must say that the bluefish I've had in recent years never seems to have as much dark meat as those I remember feasting on as a child. I don't know if this is just faulty memory, but it always strikes me when I have some.

[Skeen]

Have always had a thing for bluefish. Will have to keep the mercury/PCB's thing in mind, though.

I assume you're familiar with John Hersey's "Blues"?

[la_depressionada]

yes re: dark meat and skin. i don't now, but when i was little -- sotto i fiori dei cucuzzi -- we ate everything. ALWAYS. didn't take the skin off a potato until i was 21 or so.

[gabriel frasca]

great post, however, i disagree with your asterisk. i am neither johnny nor christopher lydon's daughter. enjoiy the bluefish.
gabriel