But to say he knows Car-azy would be a profound understatement. When a soon-to-exit critic bagels your rather vulgar take on the steakhouse, what do you do? Remove swords from the ceiling? Tweak the menu? Perhaps, but that's the difference between little minds like yours and geniuses like Jefferey Chodorow. A real man of genius responds to a pan with a long and rambling memo, which he publishes as a full page ad in DI/DO. To glean highlights would be like taking a scissors to Gravity's Rainbow. Treat yourself and read the whole thing. You will agree that you cannot say that this shit is B-A-N--A-N-A-S, but must instead conjure a new fruit, a spangled, boomerang-shaped durian, coated with Krazy Glue, being sung about by Gwen Stefani, Courtney Love, Whitney Houston while they are in the middle of a week-long meth and mezcal binge on Slash's yacht, which is anchored off the coast of Albania. That's how crazy this stuff is.