A Black Sheep with scales?

It is not surprising that Chodorow had some suggestions about how to improve Bruni's review of Wild Salmon. I imagine the fox might have some ideas regarding henhouse security, but if someone has to get the difference between a journalist and a flack twisted, better to have it be a restaurateur than a flournalist. However, I am puzzled by the reference to the "Infamous Black Cod." Does the Cod have a shady relative, a Pacific cousin who is slinging yeyo, or perhaps robbing trains? Or does Chodorow think that "famous" and "infamous" are like "flammable" and "inflammable"?