Bowls of Ramen have more fun

Who knew? But Bruni returns to Momofuku, and opines

With squat stools at communal tables in addition to tall stools at counters, [it] offers a little more comfort. It’s set up like its more lauded sister, Momofuku Ssam Bar, though it has a paler hue and a perkier spirit, playing the blonde to Ssam’s brunette.

There's something creepy charming about the way Frank invokes hair color as an existential fact. Perhaps he has not been following Cameron Diaz' career very closely. In any case, I guess this makes Ko the redhead? Bruni does not say anything about Ko. By the way, I hear it's pretty hard to get reservations there.