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Chang, Chang, Chang goes the trolley! No matter how good the food, or how much love his restaurants get, it still surprises me that an establishmenty outfit like the Beards will give this award to a chef who mostly feeds people who are sitting on stools. It suggests that Chang has redefined what "chef" is in 2008. The closest antecedent that comes to mind is Bobby Orr, who redefined "defenseman" back in the day.
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