A little bit late to the party on this one, but if the Chang vs. SF beef did not exist, it would certainly be necessary for the new national Eater to invent it. Basically, it's like this. Chang claims that all SF cooks do is put figs on plates, and huffy SF chefs manage to get an SF book signing canceled. Bourdain calls bullshit. Comments get real warm, feelers go out from Eater HQ about what it would take to get Judy Rogers to hit Eric Ripert* with a folding chair at the Beard Awards. More seriously, the lesson is that one should never ever say anything bad ever about anything to do with food in the Bay Area.** The skins are no thicker than a fig's. In any event, one imagines this is far from over, and as I await the spectacle of Bourdain nemesis Rachael Ray leading a pro-fig rally at the Ferry Terminal Market, the Cod will be Pounding the Plexiglas, and spilling my popcorn. And special thanks to Penny Pascal, who outdid herself in realizing the Chang/Alice as Biggie/Tupac vision.
*Dude can cook a fish, I hear, but spawning a Twitter impostor? Someone has a lot of spare time.
**With world enough and time, could find a link to a huffy Bauer column for each word, plus some book review blowback, etc, but you can manage fine without.