Q: Why, in 2011 does Sam Sifton drop a Blaze Starr reference into a review of a fancy but boring UES restaurant?
A: Because he can.
Desmond is a curious choice for a review. It may be relevant in ways the Cod misses, but Sifton does a good job of painting a picture of good but not very interesting food for rich folks. It's like a William Hamilton cartoon, or maybe like Le Cirque +better food and -Kissinger. But in a naked city with eight million stories, you'd think a canteen for rich folks serving Dover sole could be left to the imagination.
In any case, here is an appropriately unchallenging soundtrack -- a lounge cover of NIN: