So, Sifton Soundtracks are back from vacation. Today, Sifton drops a trey on Craft, the same it got back in the day from Grimes. It's an oddly uncompelling three star review. It was good back in the day. Still good now.
"There is no overt theatricality to the food at Craft. Its presentation is simple, even plain. But such simplicity belies a truth about the restaurant’s cooking. There can be no hiding behind artifice. No lipstick is available for the pigs."
It sounds like a nice place to eat, but not much fun to review -- describing the atmosphere, Sifton hints that Craft is like a really great Cialis commercial:
The restaurant retains the same masculine-minimalist aesthetic it had when it opened, with a constellation of Edison bulbs hanging from the ceiling, and surfaces made of concrete and leather, terra cotta and unprocessed steel. (The soundtrack, as at all of Mr. Colicchio’s restaurants, runs to dad-rock classics and NPR-approved alternative country.*)
That's not the kind of endorsement that has one pitching a tent on the sidewalk on 19th St., but it does help the soundtrack question. (Beetubs, it's impressive that Craft kept bring Craft while Tom Coliccio became Tom Coliccio.) We've made fun of Colicchio "jamming" with his "axe" now and again, but it's clear, based on Sifton's indictment of the tunes, that the appropriate Sifton Soundtrack comes from a supergroup you've never heard of. Play us off, Little Village!