Speaking of Sifton, a bit more on the valedictory review of Per Se. I'd wondered a bit about why Sifton chose to go out with a stop the presses number along the lines of "Good Restaurant Is Good." Thinking about it a little bit more, it makes perfect sense. The photograph at left of Hawaii FB Mike Edwards helps to explain. Why repeatedly drop about a grand per couple to confirm your hunch that Tom Keller knows a thing or two about this restaurant racket? Well, because you can.
More importantly, because other folks can't. Barring enormous personal resources, it's impossible for you to review Per Se the way that Sifton reviewed Per Se, because Sifton's rocking on Uncle Punch's dime, and you're not. It's a way for Sifton (and DI/DO editor Pete Wells) to close a chapter in DI/DO history with a reminder to the Cheese Sandwich Militia to know their role. Close inspection of a recent photo of Sifton confirms this hunch. Props to Penny Pascal, as always. Play us off, swag us out, OFWGKTA (lyrics totally NSFW, obvs):