Thanks to Bourdain for sharing my reservations about a cookbook, and taking that conversation from the literally dozens of readers the Cod has to his considerably larger audience. A few things, in hopes of steering the conversation in positive directions:
1) The Smithfield cobranding is a major problem for folks who care about eating responsibly, but there is a lot to like in the Whole Hog Cookbook, and I'm looking forward to Libbie Summers's next project. She has a good eye and a good palate.
2) Given the circumstances as they appear, Emile DeFelice has every right to be furious that pictures of his farm were used to promote Smithfield-branded product raised under very different circumstances. Check out his farm here, and buy his pork here.
3) In the meantime, if you are looking for a Southern-inflected cookbook by someone who is serious about working with local producers.* Hugh Acheson is the man, and a New Turn In The South is the book. Cookbooks either codify (MTAOFC, Lee Bros), or extend (Momofuku, Zuni, most socalled ethnic cookbooks). Acheson does a bit of both and rethinks a lot of Southern verities -- with exciting results.
*When they stopped selling pigs at my day job, and I needed a pig, I called Hugh, and he told me where to go, which turned out to be near Ila, GA. It was in the shadow of a bucket loader w/ my pig dangling from it that I formed my theory that it is impossible to talk to a Georgian for more than five minutes before Michael Adams is mentioned unfavorably.


Awesome, Cod, just awesome.
Best expression of distaste for Michael Adams (relevant to this post) appeared in the Athens Banner-Herald's comments section this summer where a wise farmer said "Give the man a break--it takes a lot to feed a hog."
It appeared after an article about Adams' $50K annual salary raise (funded by the state BOR and the UGA Athletic Association) which Adams, of course, accepted with compassion and sensitivity after a spate of UGA layoffs, a dry spell of several years without merit raises or COL increases for UGA faculty and staff, and a decision to eliminate benefits for part-time employees.
Of course, there's that Vince Dooley business, too.
Posted by: Peanutbutterjellytime | Thursday, 15 December 2011 at 09:39 AM
Good stuff, I like this:The Smithfield cobranding is a major problem for folks who care about eating responsibly, but there is a lot to like in the Whole Hog Cookbook.
Posted by: PS3 controller | Friday, 16 December 2011 at 02:47 AM