So, DI/DO spent some more of Uncle Punch's $ to render a SPFG* verdict on Le Bernardin. SPFG is short for "still pretty fucking good." Actually, better, and it's hard not to be impressed w/ Ripert's relentless quest for improvement and innovation. But! Two oddnesses in the writeup from Wells. One, actually in the headline:
Moving Ever Forward, Like a Fish
It, if my Probationary Ichthyologist amulet is still valid, sharks, specifically who move ever forward. Do we not want to liken Eric Ripert to a fish? He does, in fairness, look more like Jay Manuel than most chefs, but, is he an actual shark? Signs point to no.
It is the description of the saucier that seems a bit wide of the mark:
Like nearly all the savory dishes, this one depends upon the kitchen’s expert sauciers, especially Vincent Robinson, who has been on the job since 1985. Standing over his stockpots, Mr. Robinson has the control of Mariano Rivera on the mound. (Get well soon, Mr. Rivera.) When he makes a sauce of sweet pimentón for red snapper, the level of heat will be just perceptible; in a red wine and squid ink sauce for sepia, it will rise a bit higher and stop, right there.
Granted, even four star reviews note imperfections, but where does "surrendering a critical walk in game four of the 2004 ALCS to noted gourmand Kevin Millar" figure into the analogy? Who is Kevin Millar? Allow the Cod to remind you: