Big if

If Le Bernardin took Bubba Gump's Shrimp Company as an illicit amour, the precocious, spirited love child might look like this.

Keep reading for the Zissou reset, and this:

It has the flexibility of a yogi master, the balance of a Romanian gymnast. And it cinches the verdict: Laurent Tourondel is back in the swim.

And:

On his main stage above, he jump-starts a meal in a populist, clever manner. First up is a complementary heap of deep-fried rock shrimp in the drag of Buffalo-style chicken wings, a tangy red sauce slathered over them, a pool of blue cheese spread below them and wooden forks as thin as ice cream sticks rising up from the irresistible pile.

I had to read that stretch several times to figure out that "the drag"  did not mean something like "dredged," but actually that fried shrimp served like chicken wings were like transvestites. I welcome your thoughts on what would happen if restaurants could have sex with each other  in the comments.

Comments

[ogic]

C'est for real? The mind reels. (And doesn't he mean "clinches"? Copyeditors, hello?)

[Fesser]

I would have gone with "clench." This is the second most breathtakingly stupid thing that I encountered today, the first someone who insisted, after I mentioned that April 19 was celebrated as the holiday of Patriots Day in MA, kept saying "9/11 is Patriots Day." I mentioned the whole Lexington/Concord, Paul Revere thing--nothing doing. But to return:
"Buffalo-style chicken wings, a tangy red sauce slathered over them, a pool of blue cheese spread below them and wooden forks as thin as ice cream sticks rising up from the irresistible pile."
1) The "-style" seems inconsistent with the widely understood "buffalo wing" usage
2) "Red sauce" might be reddish, but not, I hope, you know, marinara, which would be nasty, but considering these are shrimp, and not actual chicken wings, I suppose all bets are off.
3) "Pool of blue cheese." You have to leave blue cheese unsupervised for a long time to get it to be a liquid, and at that point, your restaurant would be less fun than you might want--odds are, it was blue cheese dressing.
4) Unless you are Queequeg, wooden forks thicker than Popsicle sticks would seem needlessly burly.