Blush not: I like the way your sparkling earrings lay / Against your skin so brown

Just so you know,

Fresh roasted hens, preferably from the farmer down the road, are best teamed with recently dug radishes and home-cured anchovies. Clio platter, $95.

While the receipts seem unassailable, the premise of food as a "theme" for a spread seems less so. Hesser appeals for less "squeamishness," and I am all about not being squeamish, (ask Friends of Cod about that pozole back in '99) but hanging dead chickens with grosgain ribbon from Mokuba is just tacky. Almost as bad as these, which are bad for all the reasons the caddy is so good.