Hey! Bruni! Leave them Cods alone!

Bruni goes to Nobu 57, and enjoys himself. So much in fact, that he mentions food as early as the 3rd graf:

Here they are, lightly battered rock shrimp in a gently spicy mayonnaise, a dish done with dozens of tweaks and an array of seafood in hundreds of restaurants over the last decade.

And perhaps there is some Ella Fitzgerald on the iPod:

Here it is, a plump wedge of miso-glazed black cod, the culinary equivalent of a Cole Porter standard, covered and interpreted by so many artists that you may not recall where and when you experienced it first.

As it develops, it's good, like at the original Nobu. Indeed, the menu, decor, and ambiance are similar (Naomi has been to both).  It reminds me of this guy. There are 52 Wednesdays a year, and about a brazillion restaurants opening every day, so a review that establishes the similarity of a second location to the original would seem not very useful, but Bruni's thing seem to be reviews of the tried-and-true in one form or another: "Goodnight Moon--still a favorite of toddlers--3 stars."
The Cole Porter business aside, Bruni stays within himself, mostly. I was even considering a post speculating that the Bruni Digest et al had crushed his spirit. But like a unicorn, his spirit cannot be tamed. That little bit too much will always find its way past the editors and into the article. This time, Bruni dreams of eating the Augustus Gloops of the sea:

What mattered was that black cod. I'm almost convinced that Mr. Matsuhisa maintains a secret tank in which the fish toss back Jacques Torres chocolates and watch "Finding Nemo" while they fatten.

On the other side of the room is the tank where the sea urchins eat Laffy Taffy and watch The French Connection? And he cannot leave the Cole Porter conceit alone:

The result, richer in the Nobu family than anywhere else, was no less de-lovely for the number of times it's been performed.

De-fuck me gently with a chainsaw.
(I did see the tailgating article. Silently judging.)

Comments

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There's this awesome shot in Field of Dreams in a van where they drive past the MFA like a hundred times....

Oh. You were talking about the Starbucks guy?