The Stars are blind

I've not done a systematic search, but am somewhat surprised by the profound lack of buzz attending the actual unveiling of the SF Bay Michelin stars. And yet, yesterday's post aside, having had only three dinners in my life in SF, one a burrito, I find myself a bit worked up. Eater opines that one star for Panisse is a rebuke, but I have to wonder if it is not something of a lifetime achievement award. Assigning stars to Panisse at this stage of the game seems like reviewing a Velvet Underground reunion show -- the influence overshadows the immedate performance. And speaking of Panisse influence, I was surprised to see Zuni get no love at all from Bib. Just as "Harden my Heart" is better Benatar than most Benatar, the Caesar I had at Zuni did everything but hit me in the face with a bear flag to assert the fabulousness of the material California chefs have to work with.* After a fairly untranscendent meal at Panisse, it was a tonic. Like Panisse, Zuni is an institution at this point as well, and there may be a perception that it has fallen off, but no stars surprises me. I'd welcome insight from any Bay Area readers into the whys and wherefores.

I became a fan of Zuni before ever eating there thanks to the cookbook, and with advanced warning of a distinguished dinner guest last week, I decided to give her dry brining technique a go.  I've made multiple iterations of the roast chicken and bread salad, also the signature dish at the restaurant, but had never given myself the lead time to prep the chicken as she directs. I let the bird rest about 30 hours with the salt on the skin and the herbs under it, and damn, it was good. The treatment made the skin crisper, and  it seemed to me, less prone to burning. The herbs under the skin perfumed the meat without overwhelming it, and the salt made even the leftover chicken a treat. The LA times link is expired, but you can grab the receipt here.

Comments

[BK]

Food is a battlefield.

[replica jewelry]

Its interesting. I would like to know more about this…I really wanted to know how this works can you please help me out…….Thanks for sharing.bsdfs