« Days of future passed | Main | Don't call it a comeback »



Fascinating, thanks. I too read the Hoffman piece, with sadness that I couldn't trot down there for some of his own cured meats. I hadn't thought about the Mario B. situation, and doesn't Craft also cure some of their own stuff (or used to)? And coincidentally, I just finished "The Jungle". I picked it up because I'd never read it, and I've always heard it described as "the book that changed the food laws in this country" - but really, the meatpacking business is not, as you point out, the central point of that book at all.

Rose's Lime

It's one of life's most dispiriting ironies - government intervention in the name of populism typically results in greater corporate control. The government created Sarbannes Oxley to safeguard investors from corporate shysters and the result is fewer IPOs, the rise of venture capital, lower ownership of capital by individual investors, and a greater concentration of wealth. That's a little off the food track, but I'm just saying.

You can see the same thing with Fish. At Dutcher's Dock in Martha's Vineyard, there's a small fishing fleet and two fishmongers. Do the fishmongers get their fish fresh off the boat? No. They have to send a boat over to New Bedford where they can buy fish that has been inspected by the FDA. I'm not kidding. Now, there is an exemption for privately caught product - so Larsen's can sell fresh Tuna or Sword only if they buy it from Harvey Weinstein on his fancy-ass charter.

Now, on the other hand, Socialism hasn't been so great for the decentralization of industry let alone Lithuanians. In the world where Sinclair Lewis triumphs we stand in line all morning to use our ration coupons for shit-containing sausage.

Meanwhile... let Hanukah Harry know I could really use a cold smoker.


Also note that the FSIS applies its HACCP requirements to imports, which is why our "Spanish" chorizo is actually Danish, and also why it's a miracle that we're actually going to get jamon iberico.

Excellent explanation of the the conflation of industrial and sanitary. The situation is so absurd I sometimes think they will actually decentralize it... but then I wake up.


In fact the recent spinach hoo-ha is the exact analogue of the Jungle misreading.


If Babbo cures and/or stores any meats above 40 degrees, they run the risk of having health inspectors come in and destroy the stock, as happened at Il Buco. So they keep the temperature down, or do the curing at some uninspected site. Maybe Mario gets meat from his dad.

The comments to this entry are closed.

My Photo

Be my imaginary friend

  • Gurgling Cod's Facebook profile