I know, I know, it is Ssäm . In the beginning, there was Momofuku, a tiny noodle bar with much buzz. In an effort to capitalize accomodate demand, Momofuku spawned the Momofuku ssäm bar. I do not have the patience to eat at Momofuku, but folks seem to like it pretty well. I was in the area, hungry, and eager to try Ssam.
I seem to recall that there may have been some revision of this policy, but my understanding is that the Momofuku folks sought to capitalize on the popularity of their noodle place by, uh, not serving noodles at the new place. Instead... wraps. As culinary trends go, the wrap, with a chronology and trajectory similar to Oasis, seems like a rather dim star to hitch your wagon to, but there may be some burgeoning culture of wraps in Korea that has escaped my attention.
The wrap was fine. By virtue of being made out of real food, I felt better after eating it than if I had gone to Subway. If I came across one of these in an airport, I would be glad of the opportunity to eat a meal that would not immediately shorten my life. However, it was a good wrap -- for a place that offers an experience that feels like an upgrade from Subway, Ssam is getting more buzz than I would have imagined.*
I had higher hopes for the steamed buns. There was a long-ago summer on the corner of Canal and Ludlow where I basically lived on Midnight Dragon and pork buns from the adjacent Golden Carriage Bakery. That said, if ever there were a food ripe for a Schlesingerian makeover,** it is the pork bun -- cue ATK theme: "Pork buns are cheap, savory and easy to eat on the subway, but too often this Chinese treat tricks you with a bun tougher than Gabrielle Reese's, and a filling of liquid cornstarch studded with pig giblets....
When the buns came, I initially thought I'd ordered the wrong thing. In place of the enclosed bun containing chunks of savory pork, it was a pair of wee sandwiches with relatively insipid shredded pork on them. As I chewed, these strange little sandwiches began to seem oddly familiar. It was, right there on Second Avenue, despite the Sprockets-like furniture and Pavement on the stereo, pulled pork on a bun. Pulled pork is not my favorite type of BBQ, but it is best savored in situ. There are indigenous dishes for which Gotham is noted, but pulled pork is not one of thm. Indeed, in a home-and-home series, I would give the bagels of the Carolinas a narrow victory over New York pulled pork.
*The late (10:30-2:30) night menu seems to be where the action is, and I hope to have the chance to try it soon.
The warm veal head terrine, not to mention Col. Newsom's country ham, seem worth the disco pork nap that eating this food at these hours might require.
**Update: I meant Kimballian, not Schlesingerian. Cue Farleyesque blow to own head. There is room for more than one food guy from Boston named Chris. Even though Bruni went undercover at Schlesinger's East Coast Grill, still worth a stop.
Go after ten. Get the three terrine sandwich. It will all make sense. I promise.
Posted by: augieland | Thursday, 14 December 2006 at 04:19 PM
Ssam seemed like a one-off, glitzed-up Korean version of the omnipresent Anna's Taquerias in Boston. That's not a bad thing. My chop chae bowl with braised tofu and kewpie sauce was excellent and totally hit the spot.
Posted by: cinetrix | Friday, 15 December 2006 at 10:12 AM
OK, fine. Fucking "chap chae." I know that. Try telling the clowns who proofed Ssam's online menu.
Posted by: cinetrix | Friday, 15 December 2006 at 10:22 AM
it's always amazing when people who ought to have better places to go end up in the east village. my sympathies.
best pork bun in area: sichuan place on st. marks. unfortunately, the waitresses no longer dress like red chinese infantry -- whenever i went in there and they asked how many i always said: gang of four.
Posted by: dubarry | Friday, 15 December 2006 at 11:16 AM
btw, absolutely stalked out of una pizza napolitana when the owner -- how retarded is he? someone should send him a get-a-clue-gram "YOU'RE FROM NEW JERSEY" -- told some newcomers they couldn't wait inside.
indeed he chastized us all that the rest of us shouldn't be inside either. this is what you call, if you know a thing, a RACKET.
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