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Sadly, the time has finally come (probably) when google blog search is more reliable than my memory, because I can't find the thing I imagine having written about this years ago. However, I do remember coming across some relatively substantive issues like this in the OCF.

I prefer to think of it as a monument to AD rather than a truly definitive reference, something no one person, however polymathic, could write. (Also it is perhaps unfair to expect people of his generation to fully grasp the complexity of Italian and Mexican food).

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