Cletus and Conde - BFF?

Not to be overshadowed by stablemate Bon Appetit's makeover, the powers that be at Conde Nast have decreed a stately online pleasure dome for Gourmet, standing apart from the useful but unstylish Dagwood sandwich that is epicurious.com. Gourmet.com looks good -- the online design has shed the stodgy serifs and country club script of the ink and paper namesake, and has an interesting blend of features, including a piece by the estimable Laura Shapiro on Peg Bracken, but the early feature getting the most love for Gourmet.com is a peculiar feature on cooking game, or "varmints" in Gourmet parlance. If it were closer to April, I'd be sure this was a hoax, and as it is it still plays about as sincere as a trucker hat with the Virgin of Guadelupe on it. I do not have ready access to a library that carries Gourmets dating back as far as the receipts they discuss here, but the rather telegraphic presentation of the receipts, and the peculiar BFAness of the taxidermy and wallpaper photos, have me wondering how seriously I'm supposed to take it all. At least they don't call for anything really weird, like cubes of brie.