New Years Resolution

A resolution I propose for restaurant servers for 2008, precipitated by a recent visit to the Powerhouse in Chicago:

Unless they give evidence otherwise, assume your patrons can a) read, and b) are capable of making gustatory decisions. In other words, do not walk them through the menu and share your favorites. The shorter the menu and the fancier the restaurant, the more important these principles become. Faced with a menu like the one at Powerhouse in Chicago, it looked similar to but not exactly like this one in Zagat's, (the actual prices are a dollar or two higher than this) it is disconcerting to have a waiter spend several minutes giving a spiel on the restaurant's philosophy,* and then pointing out the especially the strong selections on the menu.* With only 3-4 entrees in each section, all hovering around the 30 dollar mark, they ought all to be worth ordering, right? (Where this kind of service would be helpful is at the drunky late-night Greek diner with the laminated,  12-page, slightly sticky menu -- the vast majority is what they do is eggs, but mysteriously, there is a page of things like chicken Cordon Bleu. A diner concierge who would look at you with sad eyes and say "sir, I cannot recommend the beef Stroganoff" would be a boon.)

The meal itself was ok. The romaine/quail/Nueske's bacon salad was fantastic. The short ribs were decently executed, but uncompelling in their presentation. After the zeal to narrate the menu, the service was friendly, but deliberate to the point where the meal extented to a duration members of the party were invoking tantric liaisons with Sting.***

A possibly tendentious explanation, based on limited data -- In my experience, what constitutes appropriate service at fancy restaurants in the Midwest tends to be almost oppressively high-touch, in that there seems to be an impetus to remind you that you are having a Classy Experience. I'm sure that there are spots I've not been to that transcend this regional norm, (college in St. Louis and grad school in Chicago did not permit me to run with the Trotters consistently), but it does seem the notion of what constitutes good service in a white tablecloth place varies regionally. I'd welcome input from those who dine between the coasts, or rebukes or rebuttals from anyone.

*They work with farmers who are -- wait for it -- local!
**Not surprisingly, the picks tended to be towards the pricier part of the spectrum. If the waiter had said that the lobster risotto app sucked, I would have kissed him on the mouth.

Comments

[Isis]

Oh sure: taunt us with 3 stars concerning Stingal relations and then no footnote?

[Skeen]

I hated the service at Trotter's -- they did their unctuous best to make you feel like an idiot, albeit one having a classy experience.