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The way to a man's heart is through his stomach, with a detour through his understated sense of irony. Not a day after their ridiculed their signature dish was ridiculed here, Bruni drops three stars on Dovetail, which may be some consolation.
From many perspectives, it's hard to think of any portion of the island of Manhattan as a sleepy backwater, but it does seem like the expectations and the hype built a bit more gently than they would if this place was on the Lower East Side. And kudos to John Fraser and crew for persuading Bruni that he's on the right side of that fine line between clever and stupid. Also, the drollery of the dishes is the kind of thing that seems as if it would have summoned an insufferably droll Bruni not that many months ago. We'll never know, as the proprietor is busy taking Clement Greenberg lessons, but this review seems mostly BruniDigest proof.