Reconstructing the Muffuletta

Update: Greetings, Gawkers and Balk diehards. More Lohan fun here.

The critical adulation for Dovetail suggests there are still hearts and minds to win on the whole deconstruction thing:

Dovetail, John Fraser’s new Upper West Side restaurant, is enjoying a critical reception not seen in some time. Adam Platt’s three-star review highlighted the deconstructed muffuletta sandwich with fried lamb’s tongue. Fraser says the dish came to him in a dream but also has a more practical explanation: “Lamb’s tongue is not the easiest thing to sell, so you have to pair it with something really interesting.” As always, mouse over the different elements to hear them described in the chef’s own words.

What I find most intriguing is the degree of indifference to the actual elements of a muffuletta. As a public service, The Gurgling Cod is pleased to offer these handy directions which will whisk you from Dovetail to Central Grocery in a matter of hours. There are also several reputable airlines that offer jet airplanes to take you from New York to  New Orleans. In other New Orleans news, Bill Simmons offers post NBA All Star props to New Orleans and delivers a heartbreaking cocktail of empathy and cluelessness. I don't have the heart to parse it much, but  will point out that while he is correct that New Orleans is ready for visitors, you can't buy milk or wash your baby's clothes at Harrah's.

Update: Bruni files on these debricoleurs tomorrow. And interestingly, Platt seems to have seen the lamb's tongue sans muffuletta when he visited. And speaking of NY mag, don't miss the Lohan homage to Marilyn's "Last Stitting." She looks a bit healthier than you would expect, but hard not to see the whole enterprise as a suicide note with unusually intense art direction.   

Comments

[Marco]

Simmons never once mentioned levees, but at least he wrote something.