The maestro lulls us with weeks of relatively flatfooted reviews, and then, when you least expect it, delivers like he's wearing brown shorts and carrying a Teamsters card:
As she washed down a Reuben fritter (Swiss cheese, sauerkraut and
corned beef inside a densely battered shell) with a bloody mary, I
asked her to play the Margaret Mead of downtown meatloaf, which
Delicatessen and Cafeteria both serve.
Your eyes do not deceive: "the Margaret Mead of Downtown meatloaf." It works on so many levels. Coming of age in Samoa Soho (and eating meatloaf). Setting aside the anthropologist, is there another writer working today who possesses the audacity to write the word "downtown" and then write "meatloaf"? Is it possible not to imagine that Bruni is coyly referring to some chapter in Klaus Nomi's career known only to him? Finally, does the phrase suggests just a hint of somone fellating the auteur of Bat out of Hell?
Blasphemy! His Brunness never stands flat footed! At the very least, he's up on tiptoes, ya know?
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As my father was fond of saying, even "Homer sometimes nods."
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