So the rant of the day with the higher stakes is up on the Tumblr, but when DI/DO goes out of the way to piss off the Cod, the Cod will take the bait. Steven Stern has a nice piece about how a mini restaurant empire in Brooklyn is buying whole beef carcasses and butchering them themselves. They work with local farmers, etc. Terrific, and au courrant, in other words. They have a diagram of a cow, and what they use the various cuts for -- very nice. However, the whole thing comes to a screeching halt in the accompanying recipe, which is for "pork belly guanciale." There is no such thing. Guanciale is made from the jowl, pancetta is made from the belly.* It's like saying "kidney foie gras." It's great that Marlow & Sons is doing its meat like this, but "pork belly guanciale" makes me wonder if elbow ham is next.
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