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It's hard to believe there wasn't one thing to criticize in all his visits there, it comes off reading like a 50s sitcom - "gee, golly, wow, this place is super!" Then he goes the other way with a late-night drunken Bourdain imitation on Cowgirl SeaHorse in the Dining Briefs.

Sifton can write better than this and has for years....


Sure, but have you seen it? Like, glanced up Bowery and seen it?
It's chilling. If they deliver, maybe.


Yes I have. And not that it isn't great, but a critic's job is not just to write a press release, even when he/she likes the place. DBGB has its flaws and inconsistencies, like anywhere else, and it is part of the critic's job to point those out - not to dwell on them or make a big deal about them, but, point them out. I've followed Sifton's writing career for many years since he was writing restaurant reviews for NY Press, and know that neither of these were up to his usual caliber of writing or critical abilities - he's more talented than these. Hopefully it will turn out he was just... being careful for his first review.

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