Sam Sifton -- undercover New York Doll?

Seems that way, in that DI/DO's lead reviewer is looking for a kiss. Back in the fall, he described an amuse somewhere as like a kiss from an extremely attractive stranger. Now, in another want-to-go-to-there review, this time for Korean BBQ joint Madangsui, this:

There is kimchi among the banchan, of course: Napa cabbage fermented with chili peppers and salt, Korea’s national dish. There is also a zucchini version, a bok choy one, a wonderful bouquet of tiny pickled scallion shoots. There are cold boiled bean sprouts fragrant with sesame oil, and salty tangles of wakame dressed with sweet vinegar, soft on the tongue, a kiss in a rock club, right after the show. There is boiled eggplant; dried shredded squid fried with hot chili sauce; occasionally there is a strange cold cabbage dish with bits of hot dog in it, or a crab split in two. A fellow could pick at these with his chopsticks for an hour and be pleased with the time spent.

Sifton seems to manage to tuck some reference to his inner life into almost every review. Perhaps it will become his McGuffin. 

Comments

[Marco]

Jiminy crickets, the Cod's back gurgling!

[Marco]

Excuse me that comment should have read, "Jiminy fucking crickets". Sorry.