Kenmare: world's first bizarro gastropub?

I've been meaning to write up a recent meal at Kenmare, an sidelight of my recent bootlegging trip to NYC. So far, the jury seems pretty well hung on the place. I enjoyed my meal there. We were well looked-after, even though both members of our party were dressed like carnies, more or less. (The adjacent fourtop looked like Transgendered Sha Na Na, so that might have diverted attention.) It's a room that feels dressy, of which more in a moment. It was about seven-thirty on a Sunday a couple of weeks ago, but we walked right in, and were seated immediately, no gatekeeping necessary.

For all of the hype, the food I had seemed to be about doing simple things very well. The cheddar fries w/ giblet gravy and green onion were delightful -- exactly what one would want from upmarket poutine, which is is exactly what it is. I fought my hesitation and ordered the "The Chicken," and was glad I did. A lot of effort and technique + simple ingredients = win, especially at $19.  I enjoyed in the same way that I enjoy Duran Duran's cover of "White Lines" -- artifice + enthusiasm overwhelms your better judgment.

That said, Kenmare does seem to be making a bid to be the worlds first bizarro gastropub, in that it offers well executed, but relatively humble food in gratuitously upmarket and chilly room. The disks visible in the picture at upper left only Khan's coffee table could love, and the same motif is on the front door (see right, via Lost City) creating the impression of the first restaurant with its own Dalkon Shield. With a door like that, gatekeeping hardly seems necessary. The food and the company was fantastic, but The Cod could have done with a little less untz,untz, untz from the room and the staff.

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