It may be because for the first time in the storied history of Sifton Soundtracks that The Cod has a song ready to go for a review that has not yet appeared that this week's review is so uninspiring. One imagines that Sifton will opine on Ma Peche soon, but until then, Annisa keeps its two stars. The review itself is fairly straightforward, save for a couple of spots that read like nonqualifiers in a Sifton parody contest:
The ambitions of the kitchen are as quiet as they were a decade ago, but no smaller for the time elapsed since Ms. Lo first introduced us to them. There are the requisite Asian influences, as well as African ones, none of them overwhelming in taste or technique. Ms. Lo is not by any means a flashy chef. She does not stalk the dining room in gleaming whites, glad-handing patrons and accepting praise. She simply stays in the kitchen and works, cooking as the Puget Sound novelist David Guterson writes: precisely, with earth in closest proximity to sea.and
And fluke with caviar and beets brought the same happy laughter you hear drifting out of car windows at beach-town sunsets: the salty pop of the fish eggs set softly against the sweet, fresh flesh of the fish, with a snap of beet sugar to tie it all together.David Guterson? Beats me.
In all, it sounds like a nice place to have a meal someone else is paying for. Adult, sincere, with vestigial bohemian influences, or at least a GV address. Call it Suzanne Vega, readers' choice. Perhaps we can all be more inspired next week.
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