Sifton goes offbeat, meaty and Asian, laying a one spot on Takashi, a Korean style Japanese BBQ place. It reads like a better review than the star indicates, and Sfton waxes rather lyrical at times:
Cubed raw liver comes to the table as well, a chilled, lumpy stew dressed with salt and sesame oil. It tastes of lightning storms on the high plains, of fear and magnificence combined. It is faintly metallic, rich with blood.
Is it The Cormac McCarthy Steak House? No, it's Takahi. And the graf qoted above is the last of three opening the review that do nothing but list items of food, in what reads like a deliberate reversal of his usual inclination to moonlight as 21st Century Edith Wharton. (He does end the review with a throwaway George V. Higgins reset, FWIW.) Meaty, offbeat and Asian seemed like a tough combo, until I remembered about Shonen Knife.
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