Anchower, I know. Unforgivably late to the party on this one -- blame Hughesnet.com, the worst ISP in the world, and a superabundance of stuff in real life. I was really looking forward to this one -- Sifton's first foray into the Chang Empire, and I had a song picked out in advance, and even bugged the Timelords to go ahead and review it. And then I had not the song, and the worst ISP in the world, and cousins and meals to cook and stones to drag around and a <strike>perfect storm</strike> exciting new challenges with the day job. More frustrating, the cinetrix and I dined at Ma Peche the Saturday before the review dropped, of which more later.
Sifton likes it. The dos seems about fair -- Sifton, et al, got a lot deeper into the menu than we could in one visit, and it's probably laudable that Sifton resisted the temptation to rave or pan.
The thesis of Sifton's review is that Ma Peche is the BMW 735i of the Chang Empire -- a little bigger and more comfortable than downtown's 2002 -- the analogy breaks down here, in that there is no automobile where you have to sit on a stool to drive it.
Sifton is busy enough with the food that he does not need to amuse himself with Siftonian excesses, except possibly here:
Accordingly, in line with a bistro, you may order from a raw bar — another first for Mr. Chang — offering oysters and clams, shrimp and Alaskan king crab, with a calamansi mayonnaise and a mignonette with a Thai basil bang. There is local fluke tossed with herbs and pickled pineapple, silky and difficult not to bolt. There is a flavorful squid as well, like a Vietnamese green-papaya salad born of the sea, cool and fragrant, chili hot. It is best to experience all these piled together onto a huge plateau fruits de mer, as if at some some imaginary Balthazar in Da Nang.
Yes, the imaginary Balthazar across the street from the imaginary MOMA store in Da Nang. Anyway, the song for you as you reread last week's review is "So Uptown" from the Tin Men, who are worthy of your attention regardless.
what a incredible publish, wow.
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