When is a food truck not a food truck?

When it is an Applebee's food truck. The inimitable Holly Anderson spread the news thus:

No doubt, Guiteau Monday material, but maybe on more than one level. A major "fast casual" chain like Applebee's getting down and dirty with the revered Korean taco, etc. etc. trucks? It's like Odd Future all got lobotomies and joined the cast of Glee, or perhaps as if a hip and relevant sitcom ceased to become hip and relevant at precisely the moment that its most popular character performs a stunt on waterskis. On the other hand, how did we all come to assume that if food is served out of a truck, it must, therefore, be sincere and righteous and delicious?

Also, is there not enough access to Applebee's at its eleventy billion non-wheeled locations? Relentlessly mainstream resto chain sees burgeoning hipster phenomenon, and decides that, not selling Riblets in China is they way forward? FWIW, they do seem to softpedal the Applebee's link on the truck's livery. It's a little bit creepy, like your dad trying to connect with you by offering to burn you a copy of the LCDSS farewell show, or sharing his Burning Angel password. And that puts us squarely in Guiteau Monday territory.